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"We Love to Fry and It Shows"
We're
open Tuesday and Wednesday 8:00 AM until midnight and Twenty-Four
hours daily from 8:00 AM on Thursday through midnight Monday night
Although
we're never at a loss for words (especially when we're talking about
ourselves), this article by "The Well Fed Reporter" tells
all you need to know. This guy loves us almost as much as we love
ourselves!
Can
we say "Flash Back to the Past"
Quirky N.O. grill perfect for 'other' Mardi
Gras Here in the Quarter, where people start the day with a 20-ounce
beer, the true survivors never sleep. The best moments here are the
grittiest ones, the ones that never close-- displaying a sort of
insomniac stubbornness expected in this hung-over town. Recently, the
Well-Fed Reporter and The Well-Fed Companion took a day-trip to the Big
Easy, doing some advance work for Mardi Gras. We wanted to find a place
that would suit folks from Mobile, who might visit the "other"
Mardi Gras. We stumbled upon a small, bustling, over-the-top diner right
down the road from the strip of bars and clubs on Bourbon Street:
The
Clover Grill, established in 1939, as far as anyone could remember. The
atmosphere attracted us, and the good, hot food we enjoyed will bring us
back to the Clover on our next trip over. The corner hangout is happy
place for Mardi Gras revelers, as loud and swinging as Carnival itself.
No one holds back here. The white-washed plaster outside the diner on
the corner of Bourbon and Dumaine is a stark contrast to the boisterous
atmosphere that greeted us when we opened the brightly painted,
glass-paneled doors.

The pink tiles of the restaurant
complement the 11 (of course it couldn't be 12) red stools along the
diner's counter. On the other side of this close, squeeze-by-excuse-me
establishment, larger groups can sit at one of the four tables. The
tables are aligned by big windows - perfect vantage points for watching
Mardi Gras crowds wander by, said, then manager Tim Murphy. The Well-Fed
Reporter and Companion marveled at the two, muted televisions on either
end of the joint - one with the Gladys Knight interview special and
another with a Garth Brooks video. On the juke box, jammed into the far
corner of the small place, high-powered dance tunes gave the energetic
waiters an excuse to shake a move on the way to take our order. It's the
sort of place where locals come in to chat with one another or with the
extroverted wait staff. Here, we found folks in berets and baseball
caps, wearing anything from black leather to khakis.
And we noticed most folks take heed of the sign near the door, "Be
Nice or Leave." For those who doubt the sassy nature of this diner,
another sign proclaims: "Everyone brings happiness into this
business. Some when they come in. Others when they leave."
Accustomed as we are to straight-forward menus in restaurants around
Mobile and Baldwin counties, it took us a while to get used to the
Clover's menu--that reads like a Letterman monologue.
Just reading the
menu at the Clover
is a hilarious adventure through the owners' sense of humor. In fact,
the practice of swiping the laugh-a-minute menus became so popular that
they've finally started printing take-home copies for patrons. Here are
a few gems, straight from the (photocopied) menu we carted back to
Mobile: "If you're not served in 5 minutes, it may be another 5.
Relax. This isn't New York City." "Dancing in the aisles only.
Please keep off the tables." "We're here to serve people and
make people feel they are prettier than they really are." And, true
to its Bourbon Street location, the menu includes this admonition:
"No strange tricks at tables, please. Please keep hands on top of
the table. No talking to yourself." Once we laughed our way through
the menu, a charming waiter - with the "uniform" T-shirt
"We love to fry and it shows" - took our order. This is the
kind of place for folks who need a good solid meal for a reasonable
price. Check your calorie counters at the door. As Murphy, the manager,
said: "The people who come in, they may go out to the fancy
restaurants, but they'll eat their basic meals here." Clover
Omelet's, and that's the way they spell it, were first concocted
"in a trailer park in Chalmette, Louisiana," the menu boasts.
The three-egg creations kept the WFR happy during the last visit to the
Clover Grill. A Plain Jane Omelet goes for $3.99. They'll add in cheese,
bacon, turkey, sausage, chili or mushrooms for a bit more. This visit,
the WFR tried a BLT, with crisp lettuce, juicy tomatoes and hot, crisp
bacon. It was a treat for $3.99.
We
cook our burgers under a Hub Cap!
Meanwhile, the WFC decided on one of
the "World's Most Delicious Burgers" - as the outside sign
modestly boasts. The house specialty, a mushroom bacon cheeseburger,
costs only $5.29, a Plain Jane, $3.99. Be a sport; the heaps of
succulent mushrooms are worth the extra dollar. The WFR and WFC also
requested two orders of Clover Fries at $1.99 each, and they came
sizzling to the table. Mustard and ketchup are on the tables; mayonnaise
comes on most sandwiches. For others, whose delicate stomachs can't
handle the fried food, try the "Flawless Geaux Girl Waffles!"
- plain, served with syrup for $3.99. The creativity doesn't stop with
the menu writing, however. They'll add nuts, fruits or ice cream to the
creation. The waffles are delicious and freshly made for each customer.
As the menu says, "Eat Well, Feel Swell." The 24-hour regimen
means that the restaurant has shifts "just like a hospital,"
says waiter Earl. They are: 7 am to 3 p.m.; 3 p.m. to 11 pm; 11 P.M. to
7a.m. They clean the grill at every shift change. If you happen upon the
Clover then, as we did, expect to wait a moment. The stickers above the
grill have been there for a while: GimmeMoraDat. Clocks on the wall show
time in different locales - including Chalmette and Baton Rouge. Also a
Bob Dole Clock, stuck irrevocably on the 11th hour. During summer,
you'll find cheerful daisies adorning the window sill, but during
holidays you'll get poinsettias. Ruthie the Duck Lady, a self-described
"Quarter Character" comes by often, to chat with the waiters.
"We light her cigarettes," said Baxter. As the WFR and WFC
left, to head back out to more research on Bourbon Street, we noticed a
last bit of advice from the menu: "Have Character. Don't be
one."
--- Article as found in the Mobile Register ~ Friday, January
17th, 1997 ~ The Well Fed Reporter
Clover Grill
900 Bourbon Street
New Orleans, LA 70116
(504) 598-1010
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